The iconic Burberry check, once synonymous with British heritage and sophistication, has found itself entangled in a complex narrative of class, subculture, and brand identity. The recent decision by Burberry to discontinue its check-pattern baseball cap highlights a long-standing struggle the brand has faced: navigating its association with football hooligans and, more broadly, a certain segment of British working-class youth often referred to as "chavs." This article will delve into the multifaceted reasons behind this decision, exploring the history of the Burberry check, its appropriation by subcultures, the phenomenon of "Burberry cap hooligans," and the broader implications for the brand's future.
The Rise and Fall (and Rise Again) of the Burberry Check:
The Burberry check, first introduced in the early 20th century, quickly became a symbol of British quality and heritage. Its association with the British military and outdoor pursuits cemented its status as a prestigious and durable fabric. For decades, the check adorned trench coats, scarves, and other high-end garments, solidifying its position as a mark of upper-class taste and refinement. This aspirational quality, however, inadvertently paved the way for its appropriation by subcultures seeking to challenge established social hierarchies.
Burberry Club Hats: A Symbol of Aspirational Rebellion:
The Burberry baseball cap, specifically, became a key item within certain subcultures. The "Burberry club hats," as they were sometimes known, offered a more affordable entry point into the Burberry brand than the more expensive trench coats or scarves. This accessibility made them particularly attractive to working-class youth who sought to emulate the aspirational style associated with the brand. The irony, of course, was that this adoption directly contradicted the brand's carefully cultivated image of high-end sophistication.
Burberry Club Hats Banned: The Problem of Association:
The problem for Burberry wasn't simply the adoption of their merchandise by working-class youth; it was the association with negative stereotypes and criminal activity. The Burberry check baseball cap, along with other items of clothing, became a visual marker for football hooligans and other groups involved in anti-social behavior. Images of these individuals, often clad in Burberry caps, circulated widely in the media, linking the brand inextricably with violence and thuggery. This negative association, far from being a fringe phenomenon, became increasingly problematic for Burberry's brand image. The decision to discontinue the cap was, therefore, not just about sales figures; it was a strategic move to distance the brand from these negative connotations.
Burberry Check: A Canvas for Subcultural Identity:
The Burberry check's versatility as a visual symbol played a significant role in its appropriation. Its simple yet recognizable design made it easily adaptable to various subcultural aesthetics. The check wasn't simply worn; it was incorporated into a broader visual language of rebellion and self-expression. This is evident in the evolution of the Burberry check's use within different subcultures over time. Initially associated with a more general working-class aesthetic, it later became linked to specific youth movements and gangs.
Goldie Lookin Chain Burberry: A Case Study in Subcultural Appropriation:
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